The Travelogue, Part XLI - Straya, Mate!

After having been in Australia for a month now I figured it would be appropriate to sum up my impressions. They are based purely on my experiences in Melbourne, Sydney and their surroundings and unlikely to be representative for anything but these major cities. Since Australia is one of the most urbanised country in the world, however, it is probably fair to say that my experiences might be to some degree applicable to a large part of Australians. I'll be keeping my travel musing to the end of the trip as usual, just so much said: I love it here.

Identity struggles

One of the first things that struck me while traveling here is a certain obsession with everything foreign. While Australia’s identity seems to be pretty distinct to most foreign onlookers (you know, surfers, kangaroos and all), its inhabitants seem to feel a lot less so. In fact, I’ve never been to a place whether people’s idea of what makes their national identity is so shaky. Australia is a very young nation, and as such did not have a lot of time to develop a unique and consistent culture of its own. Or at least it seems to me that’s what the Australians themselves think. Otherwise I cannot explain why the highest pedigrees Australians seem to label their surroundings with are EVERYTHING BUT Australian.

I've heard these frequently, for example:

“Australia’s great because we got the best Thai/Japanese/Asian food."
"You can skip the Australian exhibition, go to the [insert random foreign country] one."
“Melbourne is great, it’s so European!”

Anything labeled 'Australian' is often equivalented to being backwards, rural and of lower quality, and even the more conservative countrysiders seem to take the label with a certain sense of irony.

If anything, Australia seems to define itself by its nature. In all national museums I have been at here, the sections about local wildlife are exceptionally large, and a conversation with an Autralian seems to inevitable include some reference to the Bush in some fashion. I guess when the even the key event of your nation’s forming happens in some border island in countryside Turkey some 10000 miles away, then hopping marsupials and over-sized birds are all you’ve got left to make your birthplace stand out.

The Australian Coat of Arms

 In all fairness, Australia did not have an easy ride. When the Dutch first mapped the continent, they hated it in a way that only the Dutch can hate. From derogatory place names (“Rats’ Nest Island”) to marooning sailors on its coast as punishment, they clearly did not deem it a desirable place to live.

The same was true for the British, who decided it was a great location to export all its unwanted citizens to (a time-honoured practice Australia now emulates by sending its illegal immigrants to desolate Pacific islands), setting the first foundation for modern Australian identity: that of the criminal. People who can trace their ancestry back to an original convict do so with glee, and being the descendant of a certified sheep thief or con man is a badge of honour and testament to your Australian-ness.

When Australia abolished its “White Australia” policy in 1966, thousands of immigrants flocked to its shores, changing Australia’s society forever. When you walk through the big cities, it often seems as if half of Australia is Asian, and Pan-Asian culture is well integrated in society through arts, culture, and of course food. Australian cuisine, when heralded, is usually a Euro-Asian fusion mix, and locals seem to be quite proud of the quality and variety that these newer Australians have brought to their streets and dining tables.

Despite a certain amount of Americanization it seems that Australia looks to (northern) Europe as a guiding beacon for its cultural identity, and often people seem to be filled with a almost wistful longing for an imagined Europe that is filled with diversity and wonders. Going there once seems to be an expected wish list item of fundamental importance to one’s understanding of their own heritage, as if Australia would be an inferior derivative of a cool and totally happening other country.

The Pan-European Quality Control approves.

Er, Franco-Germanic Italo-Skandie Cafe?

Ironically, most Australians do not seem to be aware that Australia has established itself as a lifestyle brand abroad, with Australian coffee, cosmetics, fusion food and clothing becoming trendier every year. Australia’s excellent self-marketing has led many foreigners to believe that this is a country of beautiful, liberal, eco-conscious, life-savouring free spirits. There is a wondrous transformation that most young foreigners here undergo, turning full Aussie as soon as they come across their first surf shop, showing the lasting effects of that marketing. Unlike America, Australia has so far mostly avoided being connected with its appalling refugee policies, extensive environmental destruction and sky-rocketing obesity rate in the global public eye.

In a somewhat haphazard attempt to include the Aboriginal population into what makes the Australian identity, there are also many projects, displays and notes informing visitors of original place names, sites of significance and cultural artifacts relating to Australia’s pre-colonial inhabitants. While these efforts are admittedly in their infancy, I personally find them quite forced. It might be fashionable and appear ethno-conscious to re-adopt indigenous place names and craftwork, yet I find it is still a very white man’s definition of what aboriginal art and culture is allowed to be, and have seen little that hints to a true mingling and pollination of the two heritages.

Courtesy of Wikipages

Among all this it sometimes seems to me that Australians forget that they don’t have to look elsewhere for cultural identity, but have the unique opportunity to shape a future society of their own. When Tony Abbott reinsituted the Australian Knighthood in 2014 it seemed to me that there was definitely a feeling that Australia was a country of importance. Yet there was no idea of what exactly it was, no new collaborative future vision of what this country is to be, and so it again emulated the old. The same is true for the flag raising ceremony on Australia Day, which never quite manages to marry British-style imperial pomp with the low key beach bum rebel vibe of Aussie fame. I mean, you're playing a song about a suicidal sheep thief when your leading politician ascends to the podium on national day -  way to go Australia!

One might argue that Australians are too chilled to worry about such things such as national values and future societies, and that that might be a good thing. But then again, I'd wager it's that mixture of colonial melancholia and easy-going apathy that got them Tony Abbot.

The Travelogue Homefront Edition - Nine Ways to Survive London

So you've moved? Great! London is a city full of amazing wonders, and you will have the time of your life, guaranteed. There are however some pitfalls that, while not necessarily unique to London, have the potential to make your life difficult. These nine tips aim to prepare you for some of the inevitable that comes with living in England's capital.

The Rule of No Thermopylae

 

 

This ain’t Sparta, and you are not here to defend a mountain pass. If you need to stop and check for directions, whether it be map or phone, move away from any crossings, funnels or exits, unless you want to unleash the righteous hate of London’s fast-moving population upon your inconsiderate ass. Always remember that you are blocking them, and it costs you little conscious effort to just step out of the way before you find your bearings. Learn from Bruce Lee: good peripheral vision is the key to successful navigation in the urban jungle.

Also, there's a special place in hell for those people who try to get into the tube by standing in front of the doors, blocking everyone from leaving the carriage. Let someone from NYC illustrate that for me:

And for God's sake, stand on the right when on the escalators.

Assume every journey to take at least 30 minutes

 

Sounds like a silly rule? It’s the rule that will make you be on time, trust me. Unless your destination is just a short walk away, there is no such thing as a quick ride in London. If it claims to take 15 minutes, just assume it to take 30 instead. Double all estimations if you need to catch a flight. London transport (including in- and outwards) has the habit of unpredictably altering or delaying your journeys, and you don't want to let your friends wait.

By the way, Google Maps is way better for fast and reliable public transport queries in London than its official travel planner, TFL.

Expect Everyone to Be Busy

Every city has its own vibe and population. As opposed Berlin or Barcelona, the majority of people come to London for career reasons. This, combined with Miss London’s relentless demands on your wallet will have a profound effect on your social life, and one that you should be aware of.

Finding new friends in this town is easy. Seeing them again and often enough is where the trouble lies. People tend to work long hours and be additionally occupied with a variety of social calls. If you or your friends work in a high lifetime-cost job such as trading, expect to need to call their PA so you can arrange to have a drink with them in a week’s time. If you are used to having a close-knit inner circle of friends you better prepare for a lot of hard work. Some people cope with this by adding a lot of reliable activities to their schedule to make sure that they have some steady gig to go to, but that in turn makes them more busy and hence less available - you get the drift.

The Menu and the NBT

At one point in your London stay your plans will fall victim to the New Best Thing (NBT). The NBT is just cooler, funner or can simply be reached with less hassle than your happening. In a city this size, opportunity is just so much more plentiful, and people will often leave deciding on where to go to the last minute. Be prepared for people to RSVP and not arrive. Or to fall victim to that show that everyone’s talking about and that has its last run today. Or one of their other friends is permanently leaving the country and they have to see them off. The best way to deal with this is to either always invite a little more people than you’d like or be equally flexible and move your own party to wherever the NBT is.

Because there is so much cool stuff on, many Londoners will gather a selection of competing weekend items to then make a decision where to go. If someone asks you what you are up to, it does not necessarily mean ‘let’s hang out’. It’s a menu call. If you provide the best item, you become the NBT on the menu. If you don’t, you will have to look for someone new or join whatever the NBT is. Don’t fret about this, just keep your plans flexible and accept that people will shop around before they make a decision. If you are the very sociable kind, you can become a menu master, meaning you have enough gravitational pull to ensure that you are always enough people's best menu pick. You might end up being London's top party organizers, which is a surefire road into a life of sexual adventure and substance abuse, so if you think you've got it - be my guest.

Budget your Friends

 

If you come from a smaller place, chances are you don’t have to do a lot of friends management. In fact, small town friends management usually consists of arranging yourself with people who you don’t like but you have to be friends with anyway. In London you will find the opposite is the case. You will be inundated with awesome and interesting people, and you will have to make hard choices on which of your many new friends you want to spend your limited time with. At first glance this might seem cynical, but we are only human and there’s only so much attention you can distribute. It's the only honest thing to do. If you don’t make those choices you will end up in the Catchup-Loop.

Avoid The Catchup Loop

 

You know those friends you see once every month, and you’re having such a lovely time? You meet for a coffee or a drink and you catch up. And then it takes another month and you catch up again. And again. And again. And while you are having a good time, the person never seems to make a fundamental difference to your life. You’re stuck in the Catchup-Loop, and it’s a good recipe for loneliness.
Human beings only have a limited bandwidth to engage with their social surroundings in a meaningful manner, and you should chose carefully how you allocate this limited supply to, even if that seems counter-intuitive. Not only will it make you happier, but you also owe your friends your genuine and full dedication. Remember there are always parties or other gatherings, where you can maintain any more superficial relations, should you chose to do so.

The Love Drought

 

Like in any big city, sex is easy to come by and most Londoners can get laid when they feel the need to. Consequently London is not a sex-starved city, but love-starved it sure is. As a result dating in London can be an intense affair.
Obviously no three-line advice can save you from the myriad of weird and wonderful pitfalls that human love interactions pose, but there are some things you should keep in mind while looking for ‘The One’ in the Big Smoke. Firstly, just like your weekend time, you are subject to the NBT (see above). Expect people to cancel, to clearly have several pots in the fire or be less excited about you than you would like to (also see ‘Small Fish, Big Pond’, below). Secondly, remember that in a hard-working, anonymous and transient city people tend to be desperate for affection and will likely jump at any opportunity to have their love box ticked. Unfortunately, often their lifestyle forbids a meaningful exchange of such deep feelings, and you find yourself in an unhealthy co-dependent limbo or even worse, being slowly drained by a emotional vampire. Be protective of yourself and take it slow, if they really care they will stick around.

The Bank Always Wins

 

Being one of the great financial hubs of the global economy, London (in fact the whole of Britain) dances to the beat of the banks. This means that from housing to drugs, the best of the city is always reserved for the highly affluent and spend-happy finance population. If that was not enough, the very business seems to turn the majority of its employees into self-obsessed, socially incapable teenagers who will basically ruin any venue they go to*. Thankfully this serves as London's only reliable coolness indicator: if the bankers have discovered it, it's certifiably dead. So when your favourite haunt has 'The Suits', it's time to move on - chances are you are late already.

*There are some thoroughly nice people who work in finance. They do, however, tend to agree with the above statement, usually accompanied by a slow, apologetic nod.

Small Fish, Big Pond

 

From Celtic plunderings to ravenous fires, from magnificent minds to despicable murders, London has seen it all in its two millennia long history. You, in turn, are small fry. Pierced body artist who suspends himself from meat hooks for kicks? London gets a couple hundred of you every year. Blonde model bombshell who’s been on top fashion magazine covers? Go form a queue.
Each year many unique and special people discover that what made them hot property in their hometown is little more than a five minute conversation piece when they arrive in London. Over here, everyone is a small fish and the pond treats them with an equal amount of indifference. I’ve see more than a few people unable to cope with their loss of their unique standout feature and leave broken. Others seem to welcome the fact that regardless of how bizarre, decadent or beautiful they may be, they have complete anonymity. Either way, be prepared for people to be less impressed with whatever it is you do, are, or claim to be. Embrace that and be humbled.

The Travelogue Homefront Edition - Moving to London in One Page

After a total of 6 years of London and getting many questions by friends who want to move here, I’ve decided to distill my personal experiences with this wondrous city into a digestible blog post to save me some breath. Please mind that these are entirely personal thoughts, and your mileage may vary. Most of this, however, seems to tread common ground with most of my friends, so it is not an entirely singular view.

Moving to London

There are already plenty of sites giving you advice on where to live and how to find accommodation, so here are only a few distilled personal recommendations to complement what's already out there.

Before you even consider looking for a place, be sure you know where to live. Unless you have a well-paying job (you can find out here), you will have to find a compromise between closeness to work (sanity), quality of the location (happiness) and price (money). None of these are easy finds in this city on their own, let alone in combination.

Price

If money is your primary concern, then you will have to share. Sharing is normal for most people up (and often well past) their 30’s, so just roll with it. At the time of writing, living by yourself will eat around a thousand pounds for an okay place in Zone 2. You can also check this handy interactive map to map your salary to an area.
The further you move out, the less it will generally cost to rent. Unless you are really desperate or asocial, I would strongly advise against moving further than zone 2, as getting home at night or even getting into town can be a real nightmare (taking three different night buses and beyond). Also you will want to be close to a major tube line (no, the overground is not a major tube line) at ANY COST. The tube lines are the arteries of London, and if you live too far off them you will wither and die. Ignore this at your own peril.
Mind that because of London competitive rent market, a lot of people who’d better live alone. The lower the price is, the higher the chance are you will live with someone you don’t want to live with. Keep that in mind and don’t scrimp too much. Which brings me to:

Sanity

Unless the idea of an angry sardine party sounds appealing to you, avoid having to use public transport (especially the tube) during rush hour at any cost.  Possibility to walk or cycle (the latter not without dangers in London) to your workplace will make you the happiest coworker in the office and reduce morning grump. It will also save some of those precious hours of your day to be able to do things other than work. And work you will. The average Londoner does an extra 11.5 unpaid overtime each week, in addition to an average of 74.2 minutes of commute.

Happiness

Same as sanity? No sir. London is full of people who are quite happily insane. Sanity is what keeps you doing the things you need to do, but happiness is what gives you pleasure. That ranges from the quality of your chosen flat (working showers, I tell you!) to proximity to bars, markets and other places where fun and friends gather. As a general rule, the further you go west and south, the less fun there is to be had. There’s pockets of excitement, but if you value action in any way, you will want to look north of the river and eastwards. London moves fast, and the hip place to be can change within one year (rent prices follow just as quick). Yelp has even created a hipster map to help you find or avoid the respective areas.

Finding a place

There’s many ways of finding a flat in London, but only one that guarantees good results: rely on your friends. Just like any big city with expensive rent, the best bits are traded among those in the know. It also improves (but alas not eliminates) your chances of not living with crazies.

If you don’t have friends in London, I’d personally recommend checking those three sites. Always use the map feature if the site has one, as It will make it easier to find places near where you want to live.

Gumtree

Similar to Craigslist, gumtree offers everything from used furniture to sexual services. While you can find the odd gem, it tends to be low-budget, low-quality housing. Totally fine if you’re on a budget, but if you are looking for something akin to northern European living standards only check if you are in a rush or want to maximise your chances.

Spareroom/Easyroommate/others

For all I can tell, most major flatsharing sites covering London are owned by the same umbrella conglomerate now, so it doesn’t really matter which of these you check, they all have the same content and all will ask you to pay. The reality is that if you don’t pay you might as well not bother as everything of relevance will be gone by the time you are allowed to message people. Considering you’ll be forking out several hundred pounds a month for a broom closet, the 10 quid it will cost you to get an early bird account won’t kill you.

Moveflat

While the interface experience is a bit lacking, moveflat is sort of your shy little brother of London flat hunting. There isn’t as much variety, but there seems to be a certain community of people only advertising on moveflat, meaning you get lots of exclusives here. Has a map feature.

Scams and Tourist Traps

London has a rent industry thriving on poorly informed new residents. There are a few basic advice bits to help you wasting your time.

1. If it sounds too good to be true, it never is. Like, ever. Don’t even bother going to see the place, there is always a reason it’s cheap.

2. Double check the pictures! Some owners put up pictures of different flats, or even random internet ones. I’ve seen people advertise garden views with pictures of subtropical flora!

3. Check all appliances. Nothing will make you hate mornings more than getting a slow trickle of cold water when you were expecting a hot shower.

4. Prefer to take over a room from a flatmate, not the owner. It’s easier to read between the lines with someone who has less of a vested interest in making you move in. Always insist on meeting all flatmates if you can.

5. Check average prices for the area before you go see anything. Some people will happily charge you 700£ for a room worth 400£ because they know they’ll find some poor idiot who will not know any better.

Flatmates

No advice in the world can save you from all the surprises communal living as to offer. There are some things to keep in mind, however, if you haven’t been living in a metropolis before.

1. Because London is so expensive, a lot of people live in flatshares who’d rather live alone. This means that your chance of living with someone who has got some serious social issues is a lot higher than elsewhere. If they are not interested in meeting you, then they don’t care about the social climate in the flat and you should consider your other options. If you meet them and you get that bad feeling, listen to it and thank me later. No cheap rent ever outweighs a bad flatmosphere, and good flatmates will be a key contributor to a good London time.

2. Know thy crowd. If you can’t handle spontaneous 4am Monday parties, don’t move in with a Dalston DJ. If you like to host scruffy backpacking hippies on your couch, don’t share with a Tory banker. It sounds like a no-brainer, but because flat hunting is so competitive in London, people often take the next best thing and then spend hours lamenting the character flaws of their house mates. Don’t be one of those.

If you only remember one piece of advice from this paragraph, make it this one:

Be early and be local!

Take plenty of time and be in London. Take at least a month for flat hunting, and be in London the entire time. Some things go on the day, or they go to whoever the current occupier meets on a night out. Don’t try to rent from afar, you won’t get what you want.

The Travelogue, Part XL - So you wanna move to Finland?

Moving to Finland is a decision one should only undertake well-informed. This little post was written to give you a small overview what to expect and what to look out for. It is by no means comprehensive, but it covers the major issues that most expats will have to deal with, and is not just based on a single opinion.

Whatever your reasons for contemplating a move to Finland might be, I would like to make an educated guess that it is either of those two: work or woman. Finnish women have a strange tendency to acquire foreign boyfriends abroad and then import them to Finland. But more on that later. First you should know a bit about the place.

What to expect...and what not

 

Much to the dismay of the Finns, most people don't have a clue about Finland. Apart from Mika Hakkinnen, Nokia and the Moomins, people rarely know of anything Finnish, so they are left with assumptions. Here are some common ones.

Finland is "another one of the Skandinavian countries"

While Sweden has been sitting on it long enough to warrant that assumption, Finland shares only some of the cultural associations with its western neighbours. For the most part though, Finland always has been, and still is, its very own thing. Its border location, harsh climate and unkind history have shaped it to be something entirely different from the pretty chilled out "Skandis" of Sweden and Denmark. Expect Finns to be a lot less light-hearted.

Finland is "another European state"

Just like it isn't quite Skandinavia, Finland isn't quite Europe. It feels strangely disconnected, at times more Russian than European. Culturally and geographically it is Europe's borderlands, its untamed wilds. It's not cosmopolitan, despite having many foreigners (in Helsinki). It's not very refined, despite many cultural achievements. It simply hasn't been an integral part of Europe's history, and lacks the connection to the overall European context that permeates and resonates with the rest of the landmass, from France to Poland and from Sweden to Italy.

Helsinki is "like Copenhagen or Stockholm"

It might look like a big place on the map and even Wikipedia, but in fact Helsinki feels like an overgrown village (for better or worse). Always being considered to be an outpost (or a holiday retreat, as far as Alexander II goes), Helsinki lacks a substantial amount of history and amenities to be on par with the other northern cities, and while it can be very pretty in places it's definitely not as cosmopolitan. Also mind that Finland hasn't been a modern economy for that long, so it lacks in services and established big name shopping options (again, for better or worse).

I'm heading there now permanently, anything I should know?

Once you have made your decision and you're moving, here's some details you might trip over. This list is non-exhaustive, so if you want to contribute, please let me know.

General Stuff 

 

 

Where to live

Finland is big. Thankfully, the only thing you need to do is follow the Finns. With one in five Finnish people living in the same area, the choice is easy: Helsinki. Yes, Finns will tell you there are other cities. Don't believe them. There is only one city in Finland, and you don't really want to live anywhere else.
Now that we have established that, you should know something about Helsinki. It's a bit a mirror of Finland as a whole: there is only on place you want to live at and that is on the southern coast. You don't want to live in Espoo or Vantaa. You even barely want to live in Tölöö, to be honest. Central Helsinki including Kallio are where you want to be, and if you don't you will end up regretting it at some point. At the latest when you are queueing an hour for a Taxi at -20 degrees trying to get home.

Money

A common problem among foreign professionals seems to be their lack of money. Many people get attracted by high salaries, and even if you run them through a tax calculator, they still seem substantial. And at the end of the month, they find themselves broke. Here is how I believe this happens: Finns are not spoiled by consumerist society yet. One of the reasons they often come up high in happiness polls is because they are simply content with less. For example, going out to eat is still not a very casual thing to do. If you don't fancy cooking a lot, you will find that you have to fork out a lot more for food than elsewhere. The same goes for clothes shopping, non-seasonal and foreign food and events, all of which are (relatively to your budget) more expensive compared to, say, Britain or Germany. Another big drain will be housing. Finding a flatshare is not easy, especially when you are a foreigner. Living by yourself (if you didn't before) in the central areas can easily double your expected monthly costs. Having a Finn handy to help you find a cheap place or share is not just useful, but essential. Often the landlords will prefer to have a Finnish speaker, as they are often older and not confident in their English.
Drinking in center is also expensive: at the time of writing, 7 Euro for a beer is not a rarity. Prices get progressively cheaper as you move to the outskirts. Head to Kallio if you are looking for cheaper booze still within party range. Tipping is unknown or only practiced in places frequented mostly by tourists.

Company Life

Working in a Finnish company can be quite puzzling (or even frustrating) at times. Obviously the culture varies from place to place, and this is just my own resume, with added experiences of others.

Holidays

Okay, this one is as weird as it is important: Make sure you broker additional holidays for the year you are starting in. Otherwise your holiday allowance is determined by state law, not company policy. You gather holidays for your next year from April to April, at a rate of 2 days per month. So if you happen to start in February, you will get 4 days worth of holidays for this year. Read this twice to make sure you understand this, or you will hate yourself (or finnish legislation). Now here's the second punch: you will be gently forced to take your holidays in summer. Yes, it makes no sense, just accept that it's tradition and companies will want all their employees to be gone at the same time. It's not a hard law, just be prepared that that's what will be expected. After all, why would you want to follow common sense and flee to a warm place during the cold winter months?
There is a holiday bonus when you go on holiday, which is awesome. Holidays you don't take have to get paid out, which is also awesome. To put a bit of a unique Finnish twist on the awesomeness, if you don't take your holidays and have them paid out, your holiday bonus is deducted from that money. Don't ask.

Benefits

This might be a (commonly accepted) English glitch, but the Finnish definition of a work benefit is what in other countries would be called a tax refund. For example, many Finnish companies issue so-called "lunch vouchers" which are accepted in most restaurants, canteens and some supermarkets. They are not actual free vouchers though. Their value is taken from your salary, with the employer paying the tax (usually around 30 %). Most benefits seem to work that way. So when you calculate your budget or prospective salary, be aware that benefits are not free giveaways in Finland.

Communication

Work culture is heavily influenced by social culture, and consequently Finnish workplaces are quiet places. It is not customary to respond to email if you don't feel the need to, so expect no confirmations or replies unless they are really, really needed (and often not even then). Also expect to be the person talking in meetings - there's a reason why most of the PR jobs are taken up by foreigners. Finns would produce the cure for cancer and then hand you the details in the elevator, saying: "Here." and walk away. Also remember that you need to be twice as proactive connecting with people, as it will likely be a one-sided affair.

Promotion

Being proactive is not necessarily seen as a positive thing in Finland. Being the person who upsets the slow and steady going of things, even for good reasons, will not earn you much credit. You will realize that at the latest when it is time for promotion. Being promoted on merit seems to be seen as sort of...unfair and competitive. Loyalty and long-term employment tend to be a lot bigger factors when being considered for a higher position. But don't fret. In five years time it might be your turn to scoot up the ladder, so don't exhaust yourself, and deal with the fact that Pekka just has been here for longer.
Also, Finns are quite reluctant to praise, and that includes you. So if you feel under-appreciated, just remind yourself that if people were unhappy with your performance you'd definitely know.

Daily Troubles

 

Let's face it, every place on earth has its benefits and shortcomings. No place is completely bad or good. This is a little list of troubles you might encounter while living in Finland, and knowing about them beforehand might dampen the impact, so you can enjoy the good things even more.

Social Distance

The Finnish definition of "being close" does not necessarily match your own. Even with people who are good friends you might experience you are still missing that "extra step" towards sharing emotions and thoughts. When Finns say you are a friend, they really do mean it. But to get to the stage where they let their guard down might take you years (four on average, I hear) and it might well never happen. They will likely not be seeing things that way, as they have grown up in a culture where "close" is still quite far by other nations' standards.
This is especially true for brief encounters of physical nature: do not expect more than just the mechanics, or you might be disappointed. On the other hand, if you do give signals that you are interested in more than that, you will find yourself in a marriage quicker that you'd think.

Racism

It might not be a nice thing to say, but Finns are on average pretty racist people. Sometimes they might not even notice. The range goes from open insult on the street ("Fucking Arab!") to the "little joke" ("Haha, you sound like an bloody immigrant!") or the downright bizarre ("Southerners like you don't know how to behave around women."). This is obviously to be understood knowing that we Germans are known to be hot-blooded womanizers the world over.
If you point out the issue, expect to be met with ignorance. Political correctness just isn't here yet, and is often seen as some "American bullshit fit for gay people and hippies". I don't think you would have to expect physical hostility, but the more foreign you look the more you will be met with
prejudice.

Depression

Whether you want to blame the perpetual darkness, the alcohol abuse or the coldness of the social culture, depression is a real issue in Finland. Although the statistics have become better, Finland is still a country with low mood rates. Remember that Finns are a proud and stubborn people and would not easily say they are being in a low mood. It was not even considered a medical condition for a long time.
If you find yourself wondering why you are doing all this (especially after a couple of drinks), make sure you get out somewhere sunny, at least for a while.

Perks

After all these warnings, you might ask yourself: why the hell would I want to live there? Finland has lots of perks, but whether they are worth the trouble is of course your decision.

Quietness

Finland just runs at half the pace of other Western countries. No one's in a hurry. Most things (except buses) run steadily and reliably. People speak quietly in public places. No one, not even the beggars, is gonna bother you. People just let you be. If you enjoy solitude and only deliberately connect with select people, it's great.

Countryside

Finland has some of the most pristine and unspoilt nature in Europe, and even better, it's never far away. Even "big" cities like Tampere feel like they are still in the middle of the forest. The air is clean and fresh. There are plenty of lakes around, and wild berries, mushrooms just waiting to be plucked from the ground.

Security

Finland (despite some other claims made by more konservative Finns) is probably one of the safest countries on earth. No one's gonna wait to mug you at -20 degrees in winter.
Aside from that, you get free healthcare, free daycare and free education, all on a high level. Talking about social security.

No fuss culture

While it can sometimes be a bit tiring, the Finnish no-fuss-approach to life can also be really refreshing and make your life a lot easier. You don't need to (in fact, shouldn't) package criticism or desires to be more palatable. Just say what you want, for god's sake. Especially when you come from a traditionally more "polite" culture, such as England or Japan, give it a try. It will be quite liberating.
I find it especially pleasant with Finnish women, who have none of that helpless girl attitude so ubiquitous in other countries. a Finnish woman will probably never ask you to set up her stereo (to borrow an old gender cliche). Chance are she will do it for you.

So should you move?

In case you actually do have a choice (rarely the case if you move for a man or woman), ask yourself these questions:
Do you already have stable social surroundings (partner or good friends) in Finland?
Do you value security very highly?
Do you have kids?
Are you happy with spending a lot of time by yourself and/or inside?
Can you cope with long winters and total (read: day-long) darkness?
Are you happy about social interaction between strangers being kept to a bare minimum?
Are you happy about social interaction between sexual partners being kept to a bare minimum?
Do you enjoy quietness and being away from it all, including the rest of Europe?
Do you rarely feel like going out for good food or cultural events?
Do you love unspoilt outdoors?
Do you like to drink?

alternatively:

Are you happy with frequent casual sex without emotional attachment and large quantities of beer and/or Australian?

If you can answer the majority of these questions with "yes", then Finland might be just the place for you. If you find yourself answering most of them with "no", reconsider. I mean, seriously do. Many people who move make themselves miserable in the process.

Conclusion

Finland is a peculiar place, and just like Marmite or strong cheese it will find its lovers and its haters. You can easily have a good time there, especially if you just stay for Summer, but I have not met too many people (including Finns!) who can cope with permanent residence there for too long. It tends to make people weird.

As far as I am concerned, it has been a revealing experience in many ways, and while I met some great people, I have found that my nature does not resonate with the Finnish mindset at all. Make sure you think yours will, so that you can enjoy Finland to the fullest it has to offer.

The Travelogue, Part XXXIV - Finland: Patina Value

Sometimes Finland reminds me of how the Germany of the 50's was described to me. High social security, mostly locally run businesses where the owner was a father figure and employees were loyal, where economy and national identity formed a romantic alliance. Stuff was re-used, not thrown away, because it was made of quality. While Finland gradually becomes more globalized and Finns do not work in the same company for 25 years anymore or can count on even finding a job within Finland, attitudes seem to be slower to change. Finnish corporations have long adapted to "international" methods of hire and fire and cheap labour, but still Finns seem to reward them with the same amount of loyalty (both as workers and as customers) as in the old days. Not few of my friends buy Nokia phones out of principle, and will not quit whatever job they have "because they have been there so long already". Company loyalty is also often the deciding factor in progressing in the ranks of the company, rather than skill or expertise, much to the dismay of my more ambitious expat friends.

The same recognition of perseverance is given to objects. Helsinki must have as many vintage shops and antiques dealers as it has bars. Where the majority of the Western world moved away from collecting old oaken furniture and pocelain vases in favour of flashy new designs in plastic and steel, Finland still is willing to fork out a premium for all things old and sturdy. This extends well beyond furniture. Military paraphernalia and vintage cars are also very popular, and people can regularly be seen parading their acquisitions around town. According to a Russian antiques dealer I met, Finns are the most avid collectors of 20th century warfare remains before even the Americans. The biggest supplier of military paraphernalia (both old and new) in Europe has its home in Helsinki and makes very good profit.

Varusteleka military supply interior

Aside from a appreciation of sturdiness it might be the country's very young history that prompts its inhabitants to collect objects laden with historic significance. There definitely is a desire to create some sense of national tradition and heritage, which even shows in Finland's very own architectural style.

Finnish Jugendstil

Helsinki National Theater

Commonly associated more with its lithographic examples, such as Alphonse Mucha's flowing female forms, Jugendstil (or "Art Nouveau") is perceived to be a playful and light art movement. In Finland it took a more nationalistic note. Finnish Jungendstil is still extravagant and expressive by Nordic standards, but takes much inspiration from traditionally Finnish ideals. Solid, sturdy shapes, ornamented with symbols of nature and characters from the Kalevala, the national epic of Finland. The style is reminiscent of fairy tale castles and idealized medieval architecture - just with a more bulky, rough twist of Finnish weather.

If continental art nouveau is a steed with flowing mane then Finnish Jugend is a venerable brown bear, maybe not as fluid and graceful but equally beautiful and impressive. This fusion of ornamental style and longing for a distinct national identity has created (in my humble opinion) the single most interesting historic attraction in Finland. I would even considering going as far as saying that this artistic movement and its remains are the most interesting thing to see in Helsinki, before Suomenlinna fortress or the Rock Church. If you are looking for something uniquely Finnish, a walk around town is all you need.

Eira, Helsinki

Recycling Culture

 

But the obsession with things old and time-honored is not one that passively dwells on the past. One of Finland's angles on the future is recombining the venerable into the modern. Sustainability is not just a buzzword here. Good quality items can be used by many and for a long time, and Finns are not afraid to buy second hand. There is a truly commendable ambition to recycle and reuse, and unlike more consumption-orientated societies such as Britain, there is no stigma attached to doing so. Even relatively well-to-do inhabitants have no qualms about finding their latest Sofa at a recycling center if they happen to fancy it. Helsinki's sports probably the world's classiest second hand shops, with high quality items all the way through, and I have completely lost count of the myriad of flea market events going on in this town.

UFF, one of the many second hand chains

Finding inventive ways to repurpose old items is something of a national sport, and some of Finland's most popular designers make the majority of their design from reused materials. The official pavillion of the Helsinki Design Capital 2012 is entirely made from recycled materials. If you want some more examples, have a look at my friend Outi's fashion recycling blog, which's high view counts show that this aspect of Finnish culture well hits the nerve of the time.

Helsinki design capital pavillion

The Travelogue, Part XXXVIII - Finland: Tom Sawyer's Apple

Sorry for the lack of people-pictures in this post, but I just haven't shot any good ones this summer. :(
 
Anyone remember the story about Tom Sawyer being told by his guardian that an apple tastes so much better when acquired by hard work rather than by coincidence? This is how summer works in Finland.

Summer holds a special place in Finnish hearts, more special than in any other country I have been to. Summer is constantly mentioned all across the dark winter days like a magical incantation without which the forces of cold will eternally cover the Finnish realm."Wait until summer!" is the enthusiastic advice given to all foreigners (and depending on situation, to fellow Finns) whenever reference is made to the coldness of the country. "Wait until summer!" is universal; it works for weather-based gripes as well as well as those sprung from emotional discontent. Immigrants disgruntled by Finnish social culture are regularly promised a complete change of mood come summer. And guess what: it's true.

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When temperatures rise, Finns start popping up in the normally empty streets like Snowdrops in the thawing meadows. First tentatively, then in their full mini-skirted and short-trousered glory. Actual temperatures matter little, it's almost like Finns believe they can conjure summer into being by behaving like it is already there. And they smile. Sometimes even at strangers. If you are lucky (and can hold your liquor) you might even get invited to a random person's barbeque while you pass by.

Due to the long winters, Finns seem to have the impression they have earned their summer and nothing in the world will stop them from having enjoying it. For starters, that means your office is going to be empty. Almost all Finns take (and often are even required to take) their holidays in summer, mostly to spend them in Finland. Or some other faraway place that happens to be hot  and sunny during that one short time it's actually hot and sunny in Finland as well. They head for their Mökkis (country houses) or parents' places to spend some time holed up with the people they spent the whole winter holed up with already.

It also means you get to be outside a lot. Finland is suddenly bursting with festivals, concerts and other outdoor entertainment as if it was the national way of life. The Finnish festival site states that "The total aggregate national festival audience once again approached two million" - meaning almost every second Finn ended up going to a festival last year, not including independent ones. Parks are seamlessly tiled with picnic parties and sunbathers of all ages even during the weekday mornings. That is possible mainly by aforementioned feeling of entitlement to "your" summer: if you are indeed working during the summer holiday time you will find that your Finnish colleagues suddenly have exchanged their hard-headed work ethic for an almost southern laissez-faire. Half work-days to catch some sun on the roof? Absolutely. Beers during office hours? Why not. Business meetings at the beach? Entirely possible. Everyone just accepts that during summer, rules don't apply.

Speaking of rules, one great thing about Finland (and indeed most Skadinavian countries) is the Everyman's Right. True to its name, it allows all citizens the freedom to camp whereever they wish in the countryside, fish with a rod or collect berries and mushrooms to their heart's content. So if you like nature, wild camping or simply the taste of fresh blueberries and chantarelles you are allowed to enjoy all of that (almost) everywhere in Finland for free.This includes private property, by the way.

Hmmmm...Herkkutatti

Summertime is also the best time to visit in Finland for more obvious reasons. It's warm, people are at their friendliest and there is lots of music festivals. If you are coming to live here for a while, however, I'd recommend you come in November. That way you have something to look forward to during the long winter nights rather than seeing it all go downhill. Because right now, it's already starting to be Autumn up here and it's "Wait until summer!" again.

The Travelogue, Part XXXVII - Sweden: Scandinavian Pole Dancing

Easter, Carnival, Pentecost, Chistmas - wherever you look, all of our former honestly Pagan festivities have been compromised by Chistendom. And although the church still struggles to explain what an egg-laying rabbit has got to do with the ressurection of Christ, it has managed to successfully re-brand all holy days of former competitors to its own liking. Only in a small country in the north of Europe a single bastion of family-friendly paganism still exists.

If you entered Stockholm around the 21st of June, you might well think it is a ghost town. Shops are mostly closed, and you will only encounter the lonely or over-worked staggering homewards along with the proverbial tumbleweed. What has happened? A Pandemia? Free booze cruises to Germany? Zombie Apocalypse? No, it's

Midsommar in Sweden

A typical Swedish country house

 

Simply known as summer solstice elsewhere, the longest period of daylight in the year is a major festivity notoriously gloomy Sweden. According to some people even bigger than Christmas, and understandably so: midsommar is warm, outside and a fertility festival. You can imagine what that means. And yes, all they say about Swedes is true.

But first things first. Midsommar is traditionally celebrated on the countryside, with friends and family. If you yourself do not own a countryside house, one of your friends will surely do and take you along. The actual celebration consists of people both young and old dancing around a giant phallic symbol that is thought to be impregnating the earth and bring a good harvest. Before you think of Japanese penis festivals, be told that Swedes are more classy and have decorated their phallus with fresh greenery and it thusly looks a lot less conspicuous than one would assume.

The Midsommar Pole

There are several songs that are traditionally danced to, but one of the most popular ones is "Små grodorna", which roughly goes: "Little frogs are funny to look at, they got no ears, they got no tails...croak-ak-ak, croak-ak-ak." Dancers are required to make the appropriate movements, using their hands to imitate ears and tails and frog-hop to the croaking. Although Swedish adults claim they only do that for the children, the barely disguised enjoyment on their faces gives away their true sentiments.

A Midsommar wreath (Krans)

A lot of Midsommar traditions involve flowers and shrubbery, such as making wreaths or collecting seven kinds of flower to put under your pillow to dream of your future husband. More memorable, at least from a purely physical perspective, are the food and drink rituals. And drink they do! Shots of liquor are raised at various intervals along the generous amounts of Swedish delicacies that pile up on the table. Unsuspecting foreigners have been known to be dead drunk before dinner even starts. Don't try to sing along to any of the drinking rhymes, you'll sound even drunker in Swedish than in your own language.

One of the many Snaps shots that await you. Skål!

Being the most Swedish of all celebrations (it was even proposed to be the national day), Midsommar food consists of everything traditionally Swedish (unless you ask Danes): Kötbullar (Meatballs), herring (pickled or in cream sauce), new potatoes, salmon and rye bread are usually part of the menu. The year's first strawberries are served as a dessert.

A selection of Swedish (and not-so-Swedish) foods

Finally, Midsommar is a fertility festival. While that does not necessarily mean you need to make kids, the procreational pressure seems to translate at least into an increased amorous activity amongst the Swedes - never have I seen so many fresh couples in one place. As March (Midsommar + 9 months) still has the highest birth rate throughout the Swedish year, I'm lead to the assumption that these relationships are not purely platonic however...

All pictures are mine to use and copy, so please don't take them without permission (has happened).