The Travelogue, Part XIII - Thailand: Travel Fever

This time I want to talk about illness. Apart from Malaria and Dengue Fever, there is a sickness rife among travellers, and it is rarely talked about, so I want to give you some warning indications from first hand experience. I have attached a picture that shows potential symptoms and how you can self diagnose yourself if you think you might have caught

Travel Fever (Pyrexia Pigeris)

Symptoms and Self Diagnosis Methods for Travel Fever

As of now, no consistent cure has been found for Pyrexia Pigeris. Some scientists suggest that lack of work and steady habitat are to blame, and recommend forced incarcination in a white collar suburb. Other suggest that the condition is not as severe, and should be left to run its course until money runs out, after which the afflicted reluctantly return to sanity. Beware though, in some people, the condition becomes chronic, so check yourself often.

The Travelogue, Part XII - Thailand: Sanuk, Songkran, Spirithouses

When in my last post I said there is little that people wouldn't know about this lovely country, I now stand corrected. If you don't hang out with Thai people or read up on Thai culture and mindset, it is easy to miss many of the cultural quirks and differences that make Thailand the amazing place that it is. These are some impressions I had, some of which you might also find in guidebooks, should you ever go. Some pictures needed to be taken off the internet, as my camera has given up the ghost.

Sanuk

Probably one of the most essential words when talking about Thai culture is Sanuk, roughly meaning "fun". Very sociable people as the Thai are, Sanuk can never be experienced just by yourself, and always requires the company of others. Eating, drinking and going out together are all very Sanuk activities and seem to occupy the vast majority of Thai free (and often work) time. One of the most vivid examples of Sanuk are the weeklong waterfights around Songkran, which sees whole families drive around on pickup trucks and shower pedestrians with water guns. Part of Sanuk seems to be that you are expected to play along, no matter your condition or age, so consequently one finds that even respected and elderly Thai take part in all kinds of good old childish fun. If you want to escape from any Sanuk experience, however, social etiquette leaves you little room. The laws of harmony apply for Sanuk as well, and not taking part when it's in order is definitely a social faux pas, earning you a reputation as a spoilsport, which in the fun loving world of Thailand is a more severe title then it may sound at first.

Pace of Life

"Mai pen rai" - "Doesn't really matter", is a term I got to hear a lot. The desire for social harmony and keeping calm in the face of annoyance is one of the key habits that make Thais so enjoyable to be around. Bus not coming on time - mai pen rai. Spill a drink - mai pen rai. Be an hour late - mai pen rai. Contrary to certain tourists' perception, making fun of Thai people is not mai pen rai at all, even if it may appear so, and when talking with Thai friends they made it quite clear that they often understand much more than most farang think they do, but will not let it show. Owed to this habit of suppressing personal feelings, when Thai people snap, they do so with scary intensity. The few public displays of anger I have encountered where of such unrestrained violence that it again makes me wonder if Asian social culture breeds healthy personalities. Use of weaponry, even against women, is common in such disputes, and outcomes are often fatal. Authorities are by definition entitled to give free reign to these violent tendencies while in office, a privilege they seem to use extensively, and one shouldn't count on being treated any different as a foreigner.

These occasional incidents aside, I find Thais to be extraordinarily pleasant people. Partially this is because they are generally more content with their lives than we are in Europe, having less ambition to achieve grander things when food, family and sanuk are provided for. Mind you that by lack of ambition I don't mean laziness, rather a certain wisdom in knowing when to stop. Quoting a tuk tuk driver in Chiang Mai when asked if he earned enough money: "I drive you around two times, have enough money to get good food for one day. I drive around two of you, and I have place to sleep. Rest of the day: have chat, sleep, meet wife." Students I meet seem all equally refreshingly modest in their goals, carrying none of the rabid desire to smother their life in extravagant experiences and personality enhancements that have become so ubiquitous in the industrialized nations.

Propriety

Although typical farang behavior might suggest otherwise, Thailand is a very conservative country. Family values, chaste conduct for girls and the institution of marriage are important even for the more rock'n'rolly types. When speaking with Thais about those topics, it shines through that they are not very happy with how many tourists behave in their country, and complying with some of the basic rules will earn you not only respect, but also lower prices and friendlier faces. Running about without a shirt is considered pretty tasteless by most Thais, who will even go for a swim fully clothed. Same goes for showing (opposite sex) affection in public, so smooching (not to speak of shagging) when other people can see you can anger some Thais, even if they might seem unperturbed. Employees in tourist resorts are obviously more understanding of the cultural differences, but from what I gather they still consider you to be a pretty lose person, especially if you are a woman. Hollywood hasn't helped that issue, giving many Thais the impression that all western girls are pretty much all hookers and nutcases.
Thai girls who get physically friendly in public, especially with farang, are looked down upon, even if they are not prostitutes, and for many Thai men intact virginity is still an important asset when choosing a partner. Just like in Iran, men are expected to enter marriage with some sexual experience despite universal chastity of girls, so the inevitable result is flourishing, if illegal, prostitution (see below).

Drinking

A common mistake made by many Westerners is falling victim to the incorrect assumption that Asians can't hold their liquor. While they usually cannot compete with regular imbibers of large alcohol quantities, such as students or after-workers, the drinking habits and social pressure to drink in most Asian countries gives them enough practice to be able to overcome the alcohol sensitivity that about 50 % of the Asian population are affected by.

Thais (just like the Japanese and Chinese) love to drink. Most of the type they drink beer and whiskey along with food, but since drinking out with friends is very Sanuk  (see above), Thai parties can be very inebriated affairs. Most of the time though, instead of individual drinks, a large bottle of Whiskey (or two to three) is bought among a group of friends and then shared with soda or coke. This practice is so common that in some Thai clubs I couldn't even buy individual drinks apart from beer. Who'd blame them, considering you can get a bottle from around 250 Baht (~ 5 Pounds). The communal bottle is then positioned at the table or even the bar, and can be left entirely unattended in even a crammed club. Try that in England.

It's considered polite to watch people's glass contents and pour new whiskey and ice if it's nearing empty, which means that you should drink steadily and slowly, as helpful friends will refill your glass every time you run out. While this can work as a subtle way to control your friends' intoxication level, be aware that, since you are farang, you are considered to always needing way more then your new-found friends, who'll do their best to get you as drunk as possible.
By far the most common drink is beer and whiskey (also for girls), but all my Thai friends heavily discouraged me from drinking the cheap issue Samsong that is found in most cocktail buckets. I mean, if someone offered you a bottle of Whiskey for 2 Pounds in Europe, would you drink it? Exactly.

The King

His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej has been ruling the country since 1946, making him the longest ruling current head of state on the planet. The Thai people are extremely fond of their king, and his image can be found on every public building and many private homes. Unlike many other more well-known monarchs, King Bhumipol is actually a talented and politically savvy individual. Apart from having contributed to the nation's wellbeing with large-scale local development (some from his own personal funds) and his very own patents, he is also an accomplished author, painter, photographer and jazz musician, and has managed to keep the country together despite a staggering 15 coups de etat during his lifetime.

His son, however, is an entirely different character, and street hawkers and stock traders alike fear the day he will come to power. Despite censorship and extremely harsh lese majeste laws, Thai people are well aware of the crown prince's dubious private life: in all appearances Vajiralongkorn is a decadent slacker of little to no interest in politics apart from his personal enrichment, and the celebration of his poodle's birthday has become legendary among Thai gossipers. Some people (both Thai and expats) consider the issue pressing enough to make their stay in Thailand dependent on what will happen once Bhumipol passes away, and not few predict chaos, disorder and even the collapse of the entire Thai state.

Monkhood

Traditionally a well respected part of Thai society, the sangha has lost a lot of its reputable status in the recent years. Just like in medieval Europe, donning the robes has been a convenient way for criminal offenders to hide or escape prosecution, and several monasteries where found to be havens for prostitution, smuggling and drug dealing. Learning that monks are not saints has been a painful process for many Thais, and criticism of Buddhism and monks in particular is still falling victim to censorship. One notable exception is the movie "Mindfulness and Murder", which has gathered both international and Thai renown, and I highly recommend it to anyone interested in a different side of Thailand.

Even without any scandals, interest and belief in Buddhist doctrines is on the decline. Fewer and fewer Thai boys undergo the traditional period of being a novice and many smaller monasteries have funding problems. If you join one of the monk chats offered in bigger cities, you'll find that the majority of young monks is more interested in haircuts, punk music and the girl next door than their spiritual advancement.

Sex Trade

Many foreign tourists come to Thailand each year, not to see any of its jungles and beaches, but to take advantage of its infrastructure for buyable love. It is estimated that prostitution generates as much as 40% of Thailand's total GDP, in some regions, like the poor north east, it's as high as 80%. Having had a chat with a prostitute in Bangkok, she told me her life story, which is almost exemplary: born in the northeastern provinces, drought had forced her parents to find ways to sustain themselves and their children. While her brothers became monks, she ran away to longer be a burden on her parents and made it to Bangkok, where she started working as a prostitute as she couldn't find any other job. All her money goes back home to support her family, whom she tells she is a waitress in an expat bar. Thais seem to be well aware of this system, which might be one of the reasons why prostitution does not carry such a heavy social stigma as it does in many western countries (her friends all knew). In fact, while many foreigners would believe otherwise, prostitution in Thailand is not a product of farang tourism; the vast majority of Thai (or Burmese) prostitutes cater to the Thai market, and having extra- or premarital sex with prostitutes is a generally accepted (and even encouraged) practice dating back centuries.

Homosexuality and Gender Issues

One thing I found quite refreshing is that gender identities in Thailand can be picked relatively freely. So if, for example you see a girl with a boy haircut in skate shorts playing football, she must by no means be a lesbian. The same goes for boys: if you want to be effeminate, no one will think you any different, and I met many Thai boys who went for "the gay style" all the way, but claimed they were straight as a log. Now you might argue that this is somewhat the case in Europe, even if less frequent. Then how about the ladyboys?

Much more frequent then most foreigners assume, gatoey work in many different levels of society, and many of them eschew the drag queen style so often associated with transsexuals. As an example of the fluid gender identities in Thailand might serve Nong Tum, gatoey actor, model and Thai boxing champion. Working in my acommodation at the reception, a gatoey named May explained elaborately to me how much she hated ladyboy prostitutes, who would give all people the impressions that gatoey are hookers. While we're at that topic, a word of caution: ladyboy prostitutes are often heavily drugged and prone to violence, and incidents of stabbing are common. Besides that, ladyboys are quite well accepted in Thai culture and even have their own language particles ('ha' instead of krap/kha). Tolerance is not as prevalent (unsurprisingly) in Christian and Muslim communities, where they are presecuted or outcast.

Songkran

The Thai New Year (this being my third new year in , well, a year), unlike the Gregorian celebration lasts somewhere between three and six days, during which the various rites are performed. These rites, consisting of ritual washings and family visits are, while still performed by many, mostly a backdrop for relentless drinking and nation-wide water fights. The best (some would say the worst) Songkran is allegedly to be had in Chiang Mai, where the celebrations start about two days early and finish several days after the official ending (15th April). During this time, the city fills up with revelers, Farang and Thai alike, turning the inner town into a minefield of garden hoses, super soakers and buckets full of chalk water. No one is spared, whether it be monks or businessmen with their laptops; if you're out during Songkran, you are a viable target. DO NOT count on being exempted because of any condition (toddlers, disability, expensive equipment), so if you have to avoid the water, don't go out.

What sounds fun for one day (and hell, it is), I found quickly becomes boring, as you cannot do anything else during those five days, as even closed taxi doors don't keep you from getting soaked (they get opened, so lock them). Additionally, about 700 people die on Songkran every year, most of them in traffic accidents, but suffocation and drunk street fights are also common causes.

Spirit Houses

A remnant of pre-Buddhist belief, spirit houses are found around almost every Thai house. Placed in an auspicious location where a building is being constructed, it is believed to pacify the spirit of the land the house is built upon. Quality of the spirit house is to mirror the importance and size of the actual building, and spirit houses for giant skyscrapers and palaces can easily cost a few thousand pounds and can even have elaborate sculptured gardens surrounding them. Regular offering are made to the spirit, so it does not bring bad luck upon the house. While stating they don't actually believe in it, even more modern-minded Thais keep this practice alive, as it is seen as a endearing and aesthetically pleasing tradition. You will also find that drivers often honk when passing spirit houses of mountain and forest gods along the roadside, to avoid accident.

Style

I was under the silent and often propagated assumption that Western popular culture is dominating most developing countries, and that American movies, English pop and Italian fashion would be setting the standards also for Thailand. I had totally underestimated the cultural gravity of Asia's very own pop culture, which has its home in Japan, and more importantly, South Korea. When Thai teens look for style and music, they look north, to the outrageously styled penisular pop idols and glamour models. With the excessive hairspray and crazy couloring comes revealing clothing and cutesy accessories. While this provokes only some public concern (such as higher chance of mosquito bites from wearing hot pants), the desire to have alabaster skin has a much more profound effect on youth culture: bleaching treatments, often of dubious chemical nature are highly sought after, and contact with the sun is avoided as much as possible, creating a serious body identity problem in young Thai girls (and boys), big enough for a Thai psychologist I met to write his master thesis about it.

The Travelogue, Part XII - Thailand: Tourist Types

When you write about travels, and you want to keep people entertained (and not just up to date), some countries are easier than others. Iran, for example, was pretty straightforward: its culture is little known and often misunderstood, its sights are broadcasted infrequently and few tourists venture there. Thailand, on the other hand, is quite the opposite. Thai culture has reached the western world in many (if watered-down) forms, almost everyone I know has been there at some point, and to call Thailand touristy is probably a crass understatement.
So instead of posting pictures of Phad Thai and aubergine curry, golden Buddhas and jungle treks, I've decided to ramble about various topics that come to my mind while traveling this lovely country, and this post is about a social condition most of us find ourselves in at some point in our lives, a condition to which responses can be as manifold and individual as there are people on the planet, yet I find they can be classified. This condition is called being a tourist, and Thailand is one of the best places to study it in the wild. Here are some of the types I frequently encounter. Feel free to add me to one of them, if you wish.

Pictures are for illustrative purposes only.

The Ticklister

"Yeah, I've been there."

 

The Ticklister is the ultimate tourist. Whether they come as tour groups or backpackers, they share a desire to see as many hotspots as possible. Armed with a Lonely Planet, they do not waste a day to go through all the recommended must-sees a the country has to offer. They are in a constant battle against reality, with weather and public transport being their worst (since most unpredictable) enemies on their quest to squeeze every drop of nature and cultural heritage out of their destination. Ticklisters hate unforseen events, and if something is not recommended or well known, they will not bother. They are best recognized by incessant picture-taking, as proof that they were there is more important than the actual experience. For the Ticklister, the number of countries travelled and the amount of sights visited within them is a direct measure of ego (I call it the Travelcock) and cosmopolitanity. The fact that he actually experiences little of the life around him does not keep him from considering himself and expert on local culture and travel destinations in general. After all, there's proof he has been there, right?

Traveling with Ticklisters is nice if you just want to tag along, or happen to want to see the same things. Make sure you are a good proof of successful travel, and don't dare to delay.

The Fauxcal

"If you want to see the real Thailand..."

 

For some people, coming and seeing is not enough. Some of these people simply stay longer, or learn the language a bit better or travel away from the tourist routes. Yet for a small select group, even that is not enough. This group are the Fauxcals.
Fauxcals want the REAL experience, and they will say that often. REAL stands for Remote, Extreme, Anachronistic and Local, and is the utmost Fauxcal compliment. When you meet Fauxcals in a touristy place, they will give you a sour face (because they have been discovered) and then go through every major sight explaining at length how it is all overrun with tourists, and if you want the REAL thing, you should go to (remote) village X and Y, where local culture still prevails. The harder it is to get there, the better. They are the equivalent of the urban music nerd, who will always talk about bands you have never heard of, and will stop liking them once you do. Fauxcals tend to pick one single country and then try to reach maximum immersion into the local culture: they learn the language (in the country of course), they follow all rules of etiquette to the letter, and they only hang out with with locals. They are obsessed with getting closer and closer to the "local price" for their daily commodities, which they consider a measure of how far they have progressed on their path to indigenousness. If they could, they would shed their skin to look like a native. The tragic irony is, however, that Fauxcals are doomed to sit in the uncanny valley of tourism, versed enough to be accepted, but too off to be considered a full part of society. Fauxcals console themselves with the fact that everyone else's experience is less REAL than theirs.

Fauxcals are extremely valuable if you want to, you know, experience the REAL place.

The Slackpacker

"What day is it today? Totally losing track o' time, man..."

Slackpackers, Slackos for short, come to other countries to chill out. Their main requirements for a country are that it be cheap and sunny, and they care little for it's sights and heritage. Finding their own countries an unbearable abundance of pressure and hassle, they enjoy the "slow life" of developing countries, and taking it easy for its own sake. Easily recognizable by their ten day beards and comfy-wear, Slackos are mostly caught ambling between their lodging, the beach and the nearest food court. They are rarely seen at tourist attractions, as there are too many people and touts, causing unnecessary stress and expenditure. They also rarely make much effort to learn the language, as this requires too much work. Slackos usually stay until their money runs out, at which point they try to find a job (usually teaching English or doing bar work) or return home, ceaselessly lamenting the weather and the pace of their lives back home. If they do find a job, Slackos become Stuckos, never returning home because they can't be bothered and no lack of money forces them to. Once they reach retirement age, they usually open a hostel or bar in whichever town they happened to get stuck in, catering to the next generation of Slackos.

Slackos are easy to befriend and great to hang out with, just don't expect them to follow you anywhere.

The Knight Errant

"I've been in a monastery retreat for the last month, and it's really given me something but I think I need to move on, and now I'm trying this."

 

Mostly female, but frequently male, the Knight Errant is on a quest for...well, see, now here's the problem: she doesn't quite know, but she figured going somewhere not home would somehow fix that. Knight Errants are usually hard-working, successful and driven individuals who somehow feel they have lost themselves somewhere along the way to perfection. On a quest to "find themselves" they roam different countries, smothering themselves with extracurricular activities and semi-spiritual experiences in that hope they might get an answer (or at least relief) from their quest for meaning. Between travels, they take up some lucrative job (they have many talents) somewhere until the feeling of emptiness overcomes them again, and they feel they must go on another quest. You can find Knight Errants anywhere, from temples to beaches, as they try to be very complete personalities (on paper), mixing with almost all types of other people.

Traveling with Knight Errants is usually very inspiring, but since you are unlikely to hold their attention for long, they will leave you long before you even consider the same.

The Hippy

"Everybody here is so nice to me!"

 

Whereas some people make elaborate preparations before they visit a country, reading up on its beauties and pitfalls, its political situation and culture, the Hippy does none of that. Once she (or he) has seen this one amazing picture in this magazine, and ever since her dream has been to go there, to this magnificent mysterious world of unknown colours and scents, full of untouched, heart-warmingly friendly people. Her travel preparations consist of booking a flight into (not out of) the country and gathering enthusiasm and excitement, which she believes will get her through everything. A hallmark of the Hippy is her total and persistent ignorance of all dangers and potential problems; she will ignore cultural boundaries ("We're all the same!"), safety warnings and people's bad intentions altogether, believing that her ever-positive attitude and the natural goodness of the world will always work in her favour. If she has to acknowledge anything bad happening, she will blame it on capitalist western influences, rather than to challenge her dream of the eternally good native. Most of the time you find the Hippy either stuck in the middle of nowhere because she forgot to exchange money, or practicing Yoga at any random green spot she can find. While the Hippy's trusting attitude does indeed get her further then most people would expect, things go wrong quite frequently, and often terminally (lone hikes, drug parties, "friendly" strangers).

Hippies are great travel mates, as their unwavering positive attitude will keep you afloat while you make sure that they actually manage coming along. After two weeks the very same thing will annoy you so much you will part ways.

The Sheep

"You should go to Phuket. It's the best, really, we go there every year. It's got a KFC and everything."

 

By far the most common tourist species in Thailand, the Sheep actually hates the place, which is reflected in their constant complaining about anything local. He would much more prefer it to be warmer in England or Germany instead, but, alas, has to come to a faraway country to experience reliable sunshine and white, sandy beaches. Most Sheep never see more than one or two places in the country they are visiting, and get carefully herded around by benevolent travel agency shepherds. In the more extreme cases they might actually not even see more than two buildings (airport and hotel) on their whole trip. They shun local food for fear of diarrhea or spiciness, instead settling for good, well known homeland grub, such as burgers, schnitzel and wurst. The exact opposite of the Fauxcal, the closest contact a Sheep will ever make with regional culture is local beer (as it's cheaper than at home) and prostitutes (same). Some of them leave their resorts in groups, but their fear of the unknown keeps them close to areas with English menus and expat bars. Of all the Sheep, the Lager Lout and the Aging Thai Girl Aficionado breed are the ones you are most likely to encounter while traveling.

Sheep are the people you want to talk to if you feel really, really homesick, and you really long for some rural accent and a drunk shag with someone who looks like a cooked lobster.

The Travelogue, Part XI - Intermezzo: Dubai

As my ticket allowed me to fly into, but not out of, Iran, I had to fly via Dubai. Thanks to Star Alliance messing up my booking I had only one day to marvel at this extravagant city, but it has left some impressions none the less.

A fitting represantation: Faceless and vaguely islamic

I was expecting giant scyscrapers, oversized malls and and awe-inspiring architecture. While this is pretty much what I got, it left little worth remembering. While Dubai does please, it fails to impress. After long thoughts, I have concluded that it is the lack of context that takes the edge out of its grandeur and splendour, and left me with an eerie feeling of surreality. Often I felt like I had to knock on the surrounding buildings, to see if they are not props of some elaborate theatre play and would fall apart if only touched. The desert encroaching from all sides, reminding you that this is a barren place where humans should not flourish, makes the city even more surreal; an opulent mirage that should not have a physical body. Its oversized architecture and constant display of wasted wealth made me feel like I was indeed visiting an adult theme park, which is pretty much what Dubai is: a Disneyland for grown-ups, complete with tacky replicas of traditional Arabian buildings. Possibilities for entertainment seem boundless (although some of them are kept rather private), from indoor skiing to shopping frenzies, but if you cannot afford them, Dubai (and its surroundings) are a pretty dreary place. Not far from the glamour of the Burj Dubai and the Marina, in rows and rows of slums and grey apartment blocks live the many Asians and Africans that provide the city with cheap labour,breaking the illusion of the clean and prosperous city that is so often presented.

Right behind the city: slums and desert

When I got on the plane, I was somewhat happy to leave this city of greed (and believe me, it's prevalent in all people you meet) and dust behind, and I can't think of a particularly good reason to return.

The Travelogue, Part X - Iran: Religion, Politics and Conclusion

I know I promised to make all of my posts bitesized, but I have to conclude my Iran writings before the impressions wane, and Thailand's vivacious street culture overlays my memories. I hope you forgive me that this time it's a bit longer.

Safety

I hope my last post gave a rough idea why I would go to Iran. But many people asked me questions such as: "Isn't that dangerous?" or "Can you go in there?", so I want to dispel some of your doubts.
The commonly propagated picture of Iran in western media is that it is a semi-terrorist state, full of religious nutcases, djihadist militia and and roaming bandits (with nuclear weapons). Obviously such a country must be dangerous to tourists and impossible to get in. Not so.
In fact, getting into Iran is very easy, if somewhat expensive. If even American proselytizers can make it, you can, too. You have to get a number from a certified Iranian travel agency (there's many), which enables you to get a visa. The whole process costs between 70 and 90 pounds, which will give you an extendable 15 day visa. If you travel with a group, all of that will be included in your tout price. Denial of visa is exceptionally rare.
Usually the visa can be extended by 30 days at any immigration office, and is rarely denied (I met several people who extended four or five times), unless you have caught some unwanted attention.

As far as public safety goes, Iran is a very safe country. The amount of crime is low, and as a tourist you will have little more to fear than touts and the occasional pick pocket (which you get in any country anyway). Unless you are asking for it (like traveling the Pakistan border regions or engage in illegal activities) you will have nothing to fear even if you follow one of the many friendly strangers' invites to their homes.

This is how dangerous Iran is. I barely made it.

Culture and Religion

While we Europeans generally tend to think of Iran as "just another Muslim middle eastern Arab something state", Iran's culture and self-conception is very different, and Iranians loathe to be thrown in with "the rest of the Middle East", and rightly so.
Iran has a very strong and extensive cultural heritage, and one that most Iranians are very aware of. Persia boast one of the oldest civilizations on Earth, with about 8000 years of continued cultural development, and some of this culture still rings true in the mind and soul of the Iranians, well throughout conquest and oppression. I won't go into any historic details here, but I want to give a few examples of what makes Iran different and why that is important in Iranian society today.
Firstly, and my Iranian friends insist I write this, Iranians are not Arabs. They are Aryans, quite different in appearance and historic background, with their own language and customs. The conquest of Persia by the Arabian tribes and subsequent conversion to Islam are perceived, despite the ensuing cultural developments, as an insult by many Iranians even today. Some even insist on using only "true" Persian words, greeting each other with "Dorud" instead of "Salam" (which is Arabic).

Zoroastrianism

The sanctum of the Zoroastrian temple at Chak-Chak

Despite repeated conquest by Arabs and Mongols, colonization by European powers and political oppression, old Persian customs have persevered through time. Most of these customs date back to the times of Zoroaster, roughly 3000 years ago. While the religion itself is almost extinct (with about 120000 followers), its symbols and rituals are integral to Persian identity. The ethics of Zoroastrianism are simple: "Think good, speak good, act good', an ideal that is embodied in the symbol of Fravahar, found across Iran on old Temples and modern necklaces alike. For many Iranians with anti-government or anti-islamic sentiments it is also a nationalistic symbol of what they think is truly Iranian.

The Fravahar Symbol

One of the Zoroastrian customs practiced by most Iranian is Noruz, the Persian festival of the new year. The date is set by a special Zoroastrian calendar (yes, that means that Iranians have to juggle three different dates each day), and consequently at a different time each year. It is celebrated with a "haft sin" party, where seven things starting with the letter "s" are gathered at a table, and visiting all family members, oldest first. Many Iranians also go on holiday during this season, a fact I had to learn by hard, as transport was difficult and hard to book.
Also Zoroastrian in origin is the fire festival, which involves jumping over lit fires to cleanse the soul. Both of these customs are discouraged by the government, even more so now, as the festivities are often used for protest gatherings.

A Haft Sin table, ready for Noruz

Poetry

In times of youth, drinking is better.
With the joyful, linking is better.
The world is a mere temporal inn;
With the shipwrecked, sinking is better.
 -Hafez (1325-1389)

Thousands come to the tomb of Hafez every year

One very endearing fact about Iran is that its great heroes are not generals or warriors, but Poets. The greatest, Hafez, Ferdosi, and Sa'di have elaborate Mausoleums that draw large crowds throughout the year, who pay respect and reference to their lives and great works. Hafez, especially popular, is often quoted and almost all Iranians can recite some of his poetry. So important his works are to the Iranian spirit that it is said that "every household should have two books: the Quran and Hafez". His works were enticing enough to prompt good old Goethe to translate them, and have been translated in dozens of languages. Hafez himself seemed to be a joyful fellow, with much of his poetry being about love and wine, with some melancholic intermezzos of the decay of youth. No wonder, he was living in Shiraz, once, but no longer, famed for its excellent wine and entertainment.


Islam

Unlike shopkeepers, Allah helpfully communicates with me in English. At least I am not lost for spiritual guidance.

Islam has come to the Iranians by force, in the shape of the the Umarian Caliphate and its Arabian armies, but was rapidly accepted and soon became the dominant religion. Since the 15th century, Iran belongs to the Shia branch of Islam, and today, the vast majority of Iranians are Shiite Muslims (default by birth). The contributions of Iran to Islamic art and culture are manifold and impossible to recount, but I would like to focus more on what Islam, in my humble experience, means for the country and its Inhabitants today, as it is the most obvious and frequently mentioned Iranian trait.
Islam is not as consistently visible in the bigger cities as you might think. Sure, women wear a headscarves, but they could well be fashion accessories, and you only infrequently see chadors (the long black ones) and I have never seen a burka until I came to (ironically) Dubai.

The Hejab-o-Meter

Constant readjustment of the Hejab line has become a compulsive behavior for most women, though, and how much hair you shows both the persons mindset or the piety/repressiveness of the surroundings.To illustrate that, I have created a Hejab-o-meter, which roughly shows the connection between those parameters (thank you for lending your likeness, Samane):

 

If you are unlucky, the moral police (also known as "Fati(ma)kommando") might fine you if your hejab is too far down. At home most women I encountered did not wear Hejab, and in their cars, sort of in between private and public, sexual segregation and hejab rules are somewhat relaxed. This leads to many girls walking around certain streets, hoping to find a boy's car to hop into to exchange phone numbers and have a good time, pretending to be relatives to the public,

There is some segregation in buses and cofeehouses, but most younger people ignore it, and little ever happens. Having a boy or girlfriend is not uncommon, and many of the couples on the street holding hands are not married. Virginity is still somewhat expected of a woman before marriage, and most girls abstain or practice non-vaginal sex.

People are telling me that enforcement of the islamic rules is getting worse, as police cracks down on more and more offences. There is a difference in which ones, though: Some years ago, an engineer told me, police used to fine people for having foreign pop music in the car, or for wearing sunglasses "the American way", and other slight moral faults. Nowadays, speaking to foreigners or having private gatherings are a much bigger affair. And it seems to me that this is the most important change in Iran before and after Ahmadinejad:

Before, repression was the means to achieve the goal of a moral Muslim state. Since Ahmadinejad, the order has reversed: Muslim moral standards are now the means of repression, and the goal is control. The dictatorship is a worldly one, and just like in communist dictatorships, the moral systems are no longer an objective, but just excuse for oppression. Like one of my Iranian friends put it: "Khomeini earnestly thought that Islam would help Iran. He was wrong, which can happen. But now the experiment has generated a Frankenstein state."

Recent surveys have shown that most people support Islam, but want politics and religion to be separate. It's to see if the sentiment translate into action, and if the government will crack down even more.

Conclusion

So. How was it? How do I feel? Is it worth going?

First of all, it was great. The people are very kind and sociable, the cultural heritage is amazing, and it's good value. Many of the sights are unique and definitely a must see (like the National Jewels and the architecture of Esfahan), and entry to them is cheap as chips (between 30 pence and 2 pounds). As discussed above, the country is safe, and as a tourist you will have little to fear.

I recommend going for anyone who is a culture vulture or a nature freak, but you might want to wait some years, as almost all major sights are currently under restoration. If you are a solo traveller, or looking for holiday fun, I can recommend Iran only with a grain of salt. Since alcohol, dancing and parties are forbidden (although they do exist), there is little base fun value to be found in Iran. If you like to meet people and are wary of you surroundings, Iran is a very rewarding destination for individual travellers. Some Farsi will help though.

Also, Iran has left me with a feeling of sadness. Having seen all its amazing heritage, with all its appreciation of beauty, it's poetry of love and wine, it's desire to socialize and be merry, to dance and sing, it pains me to find its population suppressed by a inhuman government, so much the opposite of the Iranians' true soul that I have found in its art and people. I truly hope that I see the day when these shackles are broken, and Iran returns to what it was once famous for: a country of sensuality and plenty.

A couple sharing wine

Noruz celebration with music and dance

The Travelogue, Part IX - Iran: Masters of the Ornament

Even long before the arrival of Islam, the Persians have excelled at the decorative arts. Both prehistoric pottery and the stunning murals and statues of Persepolis are witness to the Iranian love for the arts and crafts. With Islam came a new wave of cultural exchange and artistic direction. As the Quran forbids the depiction of human beings* (and indeed all living things), the energy of the Persian craftsmen turned towards the geometric forms so often associated with Muslim architecture. From the "pixel-style" mosaic of the early periods to the swirling flower designs found on the walls of later buildings, the complexity of forms is stunning. Geometric symmetries are found from the little, hand-carved inlay mosaics of treasure chests to complete city plans, and cover mosques and palaces to the very last detail, even where visitors can never reach. Sometimes, the artist will deliberately flaw the perfection of his work, as a sign that he is but a humble human, and does not dare emulate the perfection of Allah's creation.
This perfection of the ornamental, abstract style permeates through all Iranian visual art: while Qurans (unlike bibles) are not illuminated, they feature bold and playful calligraphy to stimulate the readers mind, with dozens of different styles and masters. Persian carpets, famous for their quality, draw from the same geometric styles and patterns. This also serves as a visual explanation for all the people who asked: "So why do you go there?"

The following is a selection of some magnificent ornamental artworks I came across.

Ancient Persia

Gate wall murals at Persepolis

Mural detail at Persepolis

Handicrafts

A decorated Oud (Lute)

Carpet from the Carpet Museum (Tehran)

Another Carpet (Tehran)

 Islamic Architecture

While even older mosques are stunning, the colourfully tiled Safavid mosques are so intricately detailed that you discover new patterns the closer you get. They are also masters of the "stalactite" arches, like the one below.

Shah mosque door on Imam Square (Esfahan)

Shah Mosque courtyard

Lotfollah Mosque hallway

 Jewelery

 The royal jewels of Iran are safely kept under the Central Bank Melli. I was not allowed to photograph these, so I had to nick these from wikipedia. Efforts have been made to estimate the value of these jewels, but no satisfactory conclusion could be made, but they are enough to back the Iranian currency even today. Let's just say that for everything you see on these pictures, if it looks like gold or diamonds, it is gold and diamonds.

The Peacock Throne

Yes, that actually is sapphires and rubies on the dish

The Darya-e Noor, largest diamond in the world

*There is some ambivalence about that, and some people did not (and do not) care.

The Travelogue, Part VII - Iran: Frogger and Friends

Unfortunately I have upload speeds of about 10 k/s, and PCs are slow, so posts will be briefer, and have less pictures. I'm sorry.

If I was ever to paraphrase hospitality, "Iranians" would be the word of my choosing. To travel this country without being invited you would not only need to be an utter misanthrope (that alone won't help), but also go far out of your way to avoid all the welcoming people you'd meet.
Iranians are already quite sociable and friendly amongst themselves, but once you are recognized as a foreigner, their helpfulness and interest knows no bounds. Even with little or no knowledge of a foreign language they will show you around, invite you for dinner (in their own homes) and pay for your taxi. Not a day passes here without meeting some new people who go out of their way to improve your opinion of Iran and its people. I have drunk at least my own body weight in tea and sugar, sponsored by caretakers, engineers, tour guides and students who were eager to have a chat and a souvenir picture. Sometimes it becomes even mildly annoying, as some of them are so happy talking to foreigners that they will not let you go for hours and insist on taking you everywhere or sending you a text message every day or so. (To my Iranians who read this: this does not include you, don't worry.)
With the spontaneous friendship often comes a physicality that I'm not used to as a northern European. Walking hand in hand is common among (heterosexual) men, and when interacting with Iranians, you will need to get used to frequently getting hugged and touched.
Befriending women, contrary to my initial belief, is no problem (frequently even easier, as they seem to be more fluent in English), and no one seems to mind or even notice. Many of the warnings from guidebooks seem to be exaggerated or only useful in remote and very conservative areas.

Anyone remember the classic game Frogger? For those who don't, the goal is to cross several lanes of a busy street as a frog without getting run over. This is exactly how being a pedestrian in Iran is like. Iranian driving is...creative. Having been to China I'm used to red lights only having aesthetic function, and horns being the main medium of ensuring a consistent traffic flow. Iranians take the concept one step further, however. Why stick to three lanes when they can easily be made four? Reversing on a motorway to catch that missed exit? No big deal. Driving while on the phone? Sure, but only with a sandwich in the other hand. No room on the road? Well there's always the sidewalk.
So how can you avoid meeting an inglorious demise at the hands of an Iranian taxi driver? The answer is as simple as it is uncompelling: just start walking, slowly but steadily and entirely rely on the drivers to navigate around you. Do not stop, and never, never make a hasty retreat backwards. The optimum breaking distance here is about 3 to 5 inches (even less for the ubiquitous motorcycles), and shying backwards is a sure way to get hit by the vehicle passing behind you. Thankfully Iranians are used to this traffic and are exceptionally good drivers (in the vehicle maneuver ability sense), so used that they don't even swear when someone decides to change direction into a one-way street (the wrong way of course) while at the center of a four lane crossing.