Now here I am; Iran. My fear of being denied entry despite visa; evaporated. Being convicted of having some obscure unislamic item in my luggage; unnecessary. Neither the immigrations officer nor the customs even bothered to look at my face.
Fallen victim to communal conspirative tourist pricemongering, I was taken to my hostel for the price of three train rides through the whole longitude of Persia. Thankfully the hostel is staffed with the most helpful hotelier on earth, a certain Mr. Moussavi, who not only gave me a free night to stay, but simply knows everything about Tehran and organizes everything for half the tourist price if asked.
Lonely Plant guidebook proven almost entirely useless. Most places do not exist, have turned into shoe shops or have become ridiculously overpriced. All travelers having the same said guidebook doesn't help. At least there are fellow victims sharing my plight.
Now staying with four (!) lovely sisters and their mom near the mountains. Good food and great company.
More will follow, when access is easier and pictures are ready.